How do I make a mini walkie-talkie?


How do I make a mini walkie-talkie?The walkie-talkie, a portable two-way radio, consists of three blocks, namely receiver, transmitter and modulator (amplifier). The former is a super regenerative  receiver (Figure 1). Using this circuit, gains of more than 10000 times can be achieved. The output voltage is over 20 mV. In the receiving state, the signal from  the receiver is fed to the AF amplifier.
The DC-coupled amplifier (Figure 2) has an amplification factor of 500 . When using a 150 L> speaker in the final stage, you get about 70 mW output power, which is also suitable for playing a walkie-talkie enough. During transmission, the loudspeaker is at the input of the amplifier, so it works as a microphone. Because of the high amplification of the circuit, which 
now works as a modulator, a sufficient degree of modulation is obtained when speaking from a normal distance to the microphone (loudspeaker). The output signal is  now sent to the transmitter.
The transmitter (Figure 3) is a quartz-controlled oscillator with an oscillating frequency of 27.125 MHz. The quartz ensures an extremely constant frequency. 
The LF signal is superimposed on the HF carrier frequency via the collector.
If there are no obstacles to the If the carrier frequency is between the interlocutors, you get a range of about 1 kilometre. In residential areas, this is a few hundred meters.
During assembly, the receiver and amplifier can be placed in one housing. It is important to ensure that there is a short distance between the two; shielding 
by means of a copper plate is to be provided.
An antenna with a length of 70 cm should be used for a compact design and good matching. We expressly point out that for the operation of the transmitter, 
no matter how small, a permit must be obtained from the Federal Post Office.

Reference : https://archive.org/details/elektor197101v005/mode/2up?view=theater

Best Design of an adaptive Electronic starter for fluorescent lamps



Design of an adaptive electronic starter for fluorescent lamps - A cost competitive circuit of a fluorescent lamp electronic starter that can provide a single-pulse ignition, adaptive preheating time, fast reset and lower 
voltage working ability is proposed in this paper. In order to analyze the proposed electronic starter, circuit topologies in each working state are derived. 
A prototype for 20 W fluorescent lamps is also designed and implemented to access the performance. Experimental results show that features of a single-pulse 
ignition, adaptive preheating time, fast reset and lower voltage working ability can be achieved what we have predicted.

Fluorescent lights flicker during the ignition phase. The manufacturers are also aware of this problem, which is why they looked for alternatives and found one. Special fast-starting fluorescent lamps. 
However, the relatively high acquisition costs prevent them from catching on everywhere. But it is also possible without new lamps: the electronic starter ensures  that the fluorescent lamp without to torches ignites. A welcome side effect of the new starting system is the longer lamp life.


Figure 1. In addition to the glass tube, the operating circuit of a fluorescent lamp also includes a choke (inductive ballast) and the mechanical starter.



Fluorescent lights flicker during the ignition phase. The manufacturers are also aware of this problem, which is why they looked for alternatives and found one. Special fast-starting fluorescent lamps. 
However, the relatively high acquisition costs prevent them from catching on everywhere. But it is also possible without new lamps: the electronic starter ensures  that the fluorescent lamp without to torches ignites. A welcome side effect of the new starting system is the longer lamp life.
Small but nice! This rightly applies to the circuit presented here for the flicker-free ignition of fluorescent lamps. This only requires a total of 8 components, 
all of which can be accommodated in the plastic housing (!) of a conventional starter. No changes are therefore necessary to the fluorescent lamp itself or to the 
operating circuit for it.  Zero from, so that the magnetic field of the coil is reduced. Now the thyristor blocks. As a result, the negative mains voltage is suddenly across the tube, because  the capacitor C2 has charged up quickly. This capacitor forms an oscillating circuit with L1, which "rocks up" the voltage at the tube far above the mains voltage. 




Figure 2. The conventional starter usually consists of a glow igniter (glow lamp) with a bimetallic contact. A capacitor is also connected in parallel with the starter, which suppresses radio interference caused by the gas discharge in the glass tube

The tube "ignites". With the next positive half-wave of the mains voltage, the thyristor becomes conductive again. This process is repeated 50 times in the second 
After a few periods the tube will be sufficiently warm and will remain burning". This causes the voltage across the starter to drop to the burning voltage of the 
tube.
Figure 3. The electronic starter consists of only 8 components. The circuit ensures that the gas filling is heated and the ignitions take place very quickly one after the other. This eliminates the unpleasant flickering when switched on.



parts list
Resistors:
R1=470k R2=100kaw R3=1k
R4 = 56N/%W
Capacitors:
C1 = 15n (see text) C2 = 100n/630V
Semiconductor:
D1 = Diac ER 900 Th1 = Thyristor TIC 106D


Before the electronic starter takes over its task, it is interesting to know how the fluorescent lamp is constructed and works with the conventional starting device. 
Figure 1 shows the basic circuit diagram for this. The fluorescent lamp consists of an elongated glass tube containing a gas mixture of mercury vapor and argon. 
The pressure inside the tube is very low. If now due to an electric field the
When the gas filling is ignited, a discharge takes place. The discharge mainly produces ultraviolet Light. The inner wall of the glass tube is covered with a layer 
of phosphor, a fluorescent powder. the Fluorescent lights flicker during the ignition phase. The manufacturers are also aware of this problem, which is why they 
looked for alternatives and found one. Special fast-starting fluorescent lamps. However, the relatively high acquisition costs prevent them from catching on everywhere. 
But it is also possible without new lamps: The electronic starter ensures that the fluorescent lamp without to torches ignites. A welcome side effect of the new 
starting system is the longer lamp life. is the ultraviolet radiation now stimulates this layer to glow, visible light is produced. The applied phosphor layer thus 
works as a kind of light transformer that converts short-wave UV light into long-wave visible light. The light properties of the fluorescent lamps depend very much 
on the phosphor layer. They are then also commercially available in different colors and with different light intensities (see also ”’Dimmers for fluorescent lamps’’ 
elsewhere in this issue). The noble gas argon is at the light generator. not directly involved; it just makes ignition easier. The ignition voltage required for gas 
discharge depends very much on the temperature of the gas mixture: at a higher temperature, a lower ignition voltage is sufficient. For this reason, electrodes are 
fitted inside the tube, which heat the gas during the ignition process and thus facilitate the escape of electrons during the gas discharge. If the first ignition 
has taken place, a much lower one is sufficient Voltage to keep the lamp on continuously. The voltage required for this is the so-called "burning voltage". Above the burning voltage, the fluorescent tube behaves like a negative resistance; the resistance decreases, causing the current to increase prevent this, a choke is necessary (it is also known under the term "inductive ballast"). The choke is an inductive resistance; in contrast to the ohmic resistance, only very little electrical power is lost as heat,
The choke is used as an ignition coil and, together with the starter, generates such a high ignition voltage that the fluorescent lamp always ignites. The choke 
takes on another task. It keeps the high-frequency interference caused by the gas discharge away from the mains.
The term "starter" has been used several times. However, not all of its tasks have been discussed. It is not only responsible for a sufficiently high ignition 
voltage together with the choke, but also switches the current through the glow electrodes The starter usually consists of a glow igniter (glow lamp), a bimetal 
contact (thermal switch), an interference suppression capacitor, two connection contacts and a housing (Figure 2). Before the fluorescent lamp is switched on, 
the bimetal contact is open. If you now close the mains switch, the mains voltage via the choke and the glow electrodes also to the starter connections. 
This voltage is sufficient to ignite the gas charge of the glow igniter (usually helium). A relatively low current of about 0.1 A now flows to the glow electrodes. 
Through the gas discharge creates a certain amount of heat in the starter, which after a while causes the bimetallic contacts to close This results in a high 
short-circuit current through the glow electrodes, causing the gas charge in the fluorescent tube to heat up considerably. The short circuit also ends the gas 
discharge in the starter. The bimetallic electrodes now cool down and the contact opens again. The flow of current ends abruptly, so that the magnetic field in 
the choke suddenly collapses. A voltage of several hundred volts is generated, which is sufficient to ignite the fluorescent lamp.
Once ignition has taken place, the lamp voltage drops to around half of the original value; one then speaks of the burning voltage. This voltage is too low to 
close the starter glow igniter again activate. There is therefore no further gas discharge in the starter and the bimetallic contact remains open. An interference suppression capacitor is connected in 
parallel with the starter, which is intended to suppress any interference with radio reception.
That's the theory. In practice, the ignition process looks a little different. Several attempts are always required to ignite a fluorescent lamp. There are two 
reasons for this: 1. The temperature of the gas mixture in the glass tube is still too low at the first ignition attempt; 2. The instantaneous value of the current 
can be zero when the bimetallic switch opens, so that no ignition voltage builds up. Several ignition attempts are therefore always necessary before the fluorescent 
lamp is activated. Due to the mechanical inertia of the starter, the individual ignition processes are separated from one another by short pauses. And that is exactly 
what causes annoying flickering.
In order to suppress the flickering during the starting process, you have to ensure that the gas charge in the glass tube is sufficiently preheated and that the 
individual ignition processes follow each other quickly. The electronic starter takes over this task.
The circuit of the electronic starter is shown in Figure 3. The following initial situations apply to the functional description of the starter: Switch SI closed, 
the anode of the thyristor is positive compared to the cathode. As long as the fluorescent lamp is not ignited, the instantaneous mains voltage is present at the 
starter. The capacitor C1 charges up via the voltage divider R1/R2 until the breakdown voltage of the diac (approx. 30 V) is reached. Now the capacitor can discharge 
and fires the thyristor. A powerful current flows through the choke and the glow electrodes. This current creates a magnetic field. If the mains voltage becomes 
negative (the polarity reverses), then the positive current is initially maintained through the choke. The current picks up

The voltage is then no longer sufficient to fire the diac and thus also the thyristor; the electronic starter is out of order.
The practice
There is not much to write about the assembly of the starter. The circuit board shown in Figure 4 accommodates all components. It is important that there is no 
conductive connection between the connections and the metal cooling surface of the thyristor. If necessary, the thyristor can be glued to the circuit board with 
two-component adhesive. Resistor R4 and capacitor C2 are mounted on the solder side of the circuit board. The photo shows the assembled starter in two different views.
 The circuit board fits exactly into a plastic housing of a conventional starter. For reasons of safety, metal housing must not be used.
Installation in the starter housing is not particularly difficult. After the plastic cap has been removed, the glow starter is detached from the connection contacts. 
The connection wires of the interference suppression capacitor should not be cut too short, as they create the connection between the circuit board and the connection contacts. Once this connection has been established, the electronic starter is fitted with the plastic cap and placed in its place in the fluorescent lamp housing. 

Figure 4. Electronic starter circuit board and assembly diagram. The board dimensions are kept in such a way that the completely assembled board fits into the housing of a mechanical starter. For safety reasons, a metal starter housing must not be used.



The circuit is suitable for fluorescent lamps from 20W to 65W. If a 20 W fluorescent tube does not ignite directly, the value of the capacitor C1 can be reduced down 
to 10 nF. The optimal value of the capacitor depends on the fluorescent tube used; this also applies to the capacitor C2. In the case of fluorescent tubes under 20 W,
 the optimal values ​​for the capacitors must be determined experimentally.
The patent for this circuit is held by the company N.V. Phillips
(NL: Pat. 155707, 30.9.1967;
GB: Pat. 1223733, 12/27/1968).

reference : https://archive.org/details/elektor-1982-06-v-138/page/n55/mode/2up?view=theater

DIY Microwave Antenna Horn Applications with Food or Coffee Can

Looking for a highly effective microwave horn antenna? Look no farther than your pantry! Food cans (empty, of course) can be just the right size to give you lots of gain-just watch out how much YOU gain by emptying the cans! 

You can turn a coffee can into a quick and simple horn antenna with 8.5 dBi gain for 1296 MHz. Its bandwidth is very broad and this horn can be used as is from 1100 MHz to 1500 MHz. It works great in SSB, CW, FM, ATV, satellite, and even SET1 (Search for Extra-Terrestrial , Intelligence) applications. Take an empty 3-pound coffee can and drill a hole for the coax connection along the solder seam 4 l/2 inches from the bot- tom (see Figure 1 for other dimensions). Now mount a Type "N," BNC, or SMA connector in your hole. Inside, solder the probe to the coax connector (the probe is the actual antenna element, generally cut to l/4-wavelength at your proposed operating frequency). You want the probe to be sort of thick; #16 copper wire, I/~-inch copper or brass tubing, and ll4-inch-wide strips of .032-inch sheet brass have all been used and have all worked well. 
One is good, so two is better, right? Yep, in this case. The probe is pretty close to the opening of the 3-pound coffee can, 

adding a second 3 pound coffee can will improve the gain from 8.5 to 10.5 dBi (see Figure 2). Just cut the bottom out of the can (I'll assume the top has already been removed and the contents have already been consumed), so you just have a steel tube. Attach the second can to the first and extend the horn. You don't have to com- pletely solder the gap between the cans. I've found 
that a couple of spot solder points work fine. I've also used that alu- minum wallboard tape with good results, and have even used duct tape once or twice. 
The super glues I tried didn't work well at all. Now, I know exactly what you're thinking (I tried it over 15 years ago). If one can is good, and two are better, 
let's go for three! Without going into wave- guide theory, I can tell you that it won't work. When I tried using three cans, overall gain dropped to only 7 dBi. 
I have taped these to poles and stuck them up in the air for "rover" contacts. I nailed one to a rafter in my roof, pointed it at a local 1200-MHz repeater and 
used it for several years. And a dozen years ago, WSDBY in Ft. Worth, Texas, worked a station near Miami, Florida, on 1296-MHz SSB. For many years, 
this 1,100-mile QSO was the U.S. 1296-MHz tropo record. And yes, WSDBY was using a 3-pound coffee can duct taped to his tribander for this record QSO.

What is Horn Antenna : Working & Its Applications


What is Horn Antenna : Working & Its Applications

 - 
A Horn antenna is a type of aperture antenna which is specially designed for microwave frequencies. The end of the antenna is widened or in the horn shape. Because of this structure, there is larger directivity so that the emitted signal can be easily transmitted to long distances. Horn antennas operate in microwave frequency, so the frequency range of these antennas is super high or ultra-high which ranges from 300 MHz – 30 GHz.The energy of the beam when slowly transform into radiation, the losses are reduced and the focussing of the beam improves. A Horn antenna may be considered as a flared out wave guide, by which the directivity is improved and the diffraction is reduced. One of the first horn antennas was constructed in 1897 by Bengali-Indian radio researcher Jagadish Chandra Bose in his pioneering experiments with microwaves. The modern horn antenna was invented independently in 1938 by Wilmer Barrow and G. C. Southworth. This Horn model antenna is suitable employed in the UHF or SHF radio bands. Making this horn model antenna it will be easy for a beginner to make if it works in the 10GHz frequency, because small dimensions so it is not so difficult and also offers gain up to 25dBi.


The horn model antenna is usually fed (fed point) using waveguide. The propagation waveguide uses TE10 mode and works in normal frequency range. This means that the electric field (E) passes through the guide which has short dimensions and passes through a wide magnetic field (H). The terminology of E-plane and H-plane is as shown in the image below. There are many types of horn antennas, if the waveguide extends towards the H-plane it is called a sectoral H-plane. Similarly, if the waveguide is in the direction of the E-plane it is called a sectoral E-plan. If the waveguide is both plans it is called a pyramidal Horn antenna.

Pyramidal Horn Antenna with dimensional Parameters : (a) Overall Geometry; (b) Cross-section through xz-plane (H-Plane_ ; (c) Cross-section through yz-plane (E-Plane)

An illustration of a funnel antenna as shown in the image below. Long the center of the funnel to the center of the front of the funnel is denoted as L, and The length of the hypotenuse of the funnel is denoted L'. The difference between L and L' is of . This causes a phase difference in the electromagnetic field which through the aperture. This phase difference is allowed in the E-plan and H-plane. For the E-plane funnel the field intensity is fairly constant throughout the aperture. 

For Horn H-plane terrain will be tapered. As a result the phase difference at the edge of the aperture the E-plane the horn  is more critical and the phase difference should be less than 90 degree (1/4 lambda). In the H-plane  the horn allowable phase difference is 144 degree (0.4 lambda). If the aperture in the pyramidal funnel i.e. E-plane and H-plane exceeds one wavelength then the pattern becomes independent and can be analyzed separately.

Horn Antenna Gain

Horns have very little loss, so the directivity of a horn is roughly equal to its gain. The gain G of a pyramidal horn antenna (the ratio of the radiated power intensity along its beam axis to the intensity of an isotropic antenna with the same input power) is:

For conical horns, the gain is :

Where

A is the area of the aperture,
d is the aperture diameter of a conical horn
λ is the wavelength,
eA is a dimensionless parameter between 0 and 1 called the aperture efficiency,
The aperture efficiency ranges from 0.4 to 0.8 in practical horn antennas. For optimum pyramidal horns, eA = 0.511., while for optimum conical horns eA = 0.522. So an approximate figure of 0.5 is often used. The aperture efficiency increases with the length of the horn, and for aperture-limited horns is approximately unity

Horn Antenna Frequency Range

The operational frequency range of a horn antenna is around 300MHz to 30GHz. This antenna works in UHF and SHF frequency ranges.

Horn Antenna Radiation Pattern 

Radion patterns of pyramidal horn antenna (a) H-plane and (b) E-plane

The radiation pattern of a horn antenna is a Spherical Wave front. The following figure shows the radiation pattern of horn antenna. The wave radiates from the
aperture, minimizing the diffraction of waves. The flaring keeps the beam focussed. The radiated beam has high directivity.

Horn Antenna Design Example 


10GHz pyramidal horn antenna with approx. 18dBi visible gain like the picture below  The first parameter in planning the antenna are the gain and maximum antenna  size. These two things of course are related to each other, and can be estimated as follows.

L = H-plane length (λ) = 0.0654 × gain (Eq 1)
A = H-plane aperture (λ) = 0.0443 × gain (Eq 2)
B = E-plane aperture (λ) = 0.81 A (Eq 3)
Where :
Gain is expressed as a ratio, 20 dBi gain = 100 L, A and B are dimensions shown in Figure above. From the above equation for the dimensions of the antenna which has a gain 20dBi is a funnel that works in the 10.368GHz frequency. one length the band of 10.368GHz  is 1.138 inches. Length (L) of the funnel is 0.0654 x 100 = 6.54 lambda. At 10.368GHz. Appropriate aperture for the H-plan (A) horn is 4.43 lamda or 5.04 inches,  and the E-plan aperture is (B) 4.08 inches.
The easiest way to make such a horn antenna is to prepare the side pieces and solder them together. With Thus, the antenna material is made of metal that is easy  to solder. 



It is not recommended to use aluminum material, because it is difficult to manufacture. The dimensions of the triangular pieces are shown in Figure above.

Notice that the pieces of the triangle are trimmed at the ends of the which is tapered to fit the aperture of the waveguide (0.9 x 0.4 inch). This make the length 
from the base to the apex of the small triangle ( side B) shorter compared to side (A). Also note that the length S of the two sides different funnels must be the 
same in order to be assembled together. Need care must be taken in assembling this funnel antenna. The dimensions of the sides can be calculated by simple geometric math. But it will be easier if you make a pattern first on cardboard. From pattern cut and made an artificial funnel antenna first to make sure everything fits and  can be assembled together before cutting sheets of antenna material such as brass or copper.

Cut 2 pieces of cardboard for side A and side B and glue them together , in the form of a funnel. After that prepare a new sheet and cut 5.04 x 4.08 inches and 
punch a hole in the center to a size of 0.9 x 0.4 inches for the waveguide. If these dimensions are correct, use this cardboard pattern to mark or draw a pattern 
on a sheet of antenna material that actually. Cut the sheet of brass/copper antenna material carefully, because cutting errors will be fatal and you will lose
antenna material because it must be wasted. The next step is to put the parts together side by soldering. Remember the soldering part is the outside connection. 
Because if the part in the connection will affect its RF radiation and can reduce the gain of the funnel antenna.

reference :

Best Rf Demo Kit NanoVNA Attenuator Board Tester Module For Network Analysis









Main Use: 

RF Demo Kit NanoVNA RF test board demonstration calibration board, used for learning vector network analyzer, antenna analyzer test calibration learning
High Quality: Each module is carefully selected for high quality and high reliability
Lightweight and Portable: The board is small and lightweight, suitable for carrying around. Comes with 2 UFL patch cables for easy access
Multiple Functions: The board fully integrates 18 functional modules
High-quality Service: 100% quali
ty and safety guarantee. 

Made of fine quality material, practical, easy to operate and use, wide application range, has a long service life.

Features:

Made of fine quality material, practical, has a long service life.
Compact and lightweight, easy to operate and use.
This is a vector network analyzer learner tool.
Can be used with NanoVNA-F to measure 6.5M ceramic notch filter.
Can be used with NanoVNA-F to measure homemade low-pass-filter, 3dB bandwidth about 400MHz.

Specifications:

Material: PCB
Color: green
RLC series and parallel circuit 1
RLC series and parallel circuit 2
33 ohm resistance, SWR=1.5
75 ohm resistance, SWR=1.5
BSF ceramic notch filter, center frequency 6.5MHz
BPF ceramic filter, centre frequency 10.7MHz
RC series circuit
LC series circuit
Capacitor
Inductance
Homemade low-pass filter, 3dB bandwidth 400MHz
Homemade high-pass filter, 3dB bandwidth 500MHz
Short-circuit calibration circuit
Open-circuit calibration circuit
50 ohm load calibration circuit
Straight-through
10dB attenuation circuit
3dB attenuation circuit
Each set of functional circuits
Item size: 100 * 100mm / 3.9 * 3.9in
Item weight: 38g / 1.3ounce
Package size: 159 * 152 * 52mm / 6.3 * 6.0 * 2.0in
Package weight: 65g / 2.3ounce

Package List:
1 * PCB RF Tester Board
2 * 200mm Adapter Cable